Getting a DLP resin printer is a good start. You’ll need a lot of extra things to keep you safe and get your prints from the build plate to the point where they can actually be used. You can look at the DLP resin workflow article HERE to see where the items are used.
The links here are to Amazon.Com, MatterHackers.Com or to specific manufacturers. They are affiliate links, which means that should you use them to purchase, I will get a kickback from the website seller. This does not change the price to you at all! Thanks for your help!
It’s important not to use a metal spatula on either the resin tank or the build plate. Many printers come with a small plastic spatula, and that’s good enough. If you didn’t get one, or need a replacement, this is a good one.
|Nitrile Rubber Gloves|
These are perfect for handling UV resin and working with models before they’re cured. They have kept my hands perfectly safe, and they’re quite comfortable.
|Kitchen Paper Towel|
Any paper towel will do. This is here in case you just want to add it to the rest of whatever Amazon order you’ve got going, just so you have extra (you go through a lot of this!)
|Mean Green Cleaner|
I use this instead of isopropyl alcohol to clean liquid resin off of printed models or printer parts. It works just as well, isn’t flammable, doesn’t smell evil and can even aid you in cleaning up the place!
|Plastic Pickle Jar With Sieve Insert|
I use two of these, one for Mean Green and one for tap water. I use them to wash my models. They’re excellent, and the lids are sealed, so no leaks or spills when the lids are on.
|Unused Empty Paint Can (for UV Chamber)|
I built a UV curing chamber out of a new paint can (no paint!), some UV strip lights (listed below), aluminum foil (listed below) and a cooling rack (listed below). It works great to cure my finished models! The paint can is a good size for anything made on an Epax 1, AnyCubic Photon or Elegoo Mars-sized printer.
|Ultraviolet LED Strip Lights, 16.4 Feet (for UV Chamber) with 12V Power Supply|
I use this for the UV light source inside my paint can. I spiraled the lights from bottom to top (the light strip has a tape strip to stick the lights to the inside of the can). I stuck the power end out a hole in the bottom of the can (drilled out). I ordered the version without the power supply, and then had to order that separately. This one comes with the correct power supply.
|Aluminum Foil 2″ Wide, 30′ Long Tape (for UV Chamber)|
I lined the inside of the paint can with this shiny tape so that the light is reflected around everywhere. I even coated the bottom, but I ignored the lid (and don’t usually use it).
|Small Cooling Rack (for UV Chamber)|
This goes on the bottom of the paint can to raise up the curing models off the bottom. Light should be able to bounce up and cure the bottom of the model, too.
|X-Acto Hobby Knife|
It’s handy to have an X-Acto hobby knife around. I use it to clean up models and cut tape when I made my UV chamber). It’s just a great, sharp, small knife. If you ever have to replace your FEP film at the bottom of your resin bath, you’ll need to trim off the excess plastic here, too.
|10-Piece Needle File Set|
Cleaning up cured models will require filing areas where supports were attached. This collection of files is great to get you the shapes and curves necessary so that you can get a file in where you need it.
Many FDM filament printers come with one of these, but DLP resin printers don’t tend to. These are great for snipping off supports.
|Paper Filters For Unused Resin|
Once in a while it’s necessary to empty the resin vat back into the resin bottle. You’ll need to filter this resin, to strain out any little bits of cured resin or other bits, so that when you reuse the resin, it’s pristine.
|Small Plastic Funnel|
Theoretically, you can use the paper filters without a funnel, but that scares me. I put my paper filters inside a small plastic funnel, so that I have more control.
|White Krylon ColorMaxx Flat Spray Paint|
I use this paint as primer paint to spray my finished and cleaned models before adding any hobby paint. I sometimes use the gray, tan, olive drab or white version of the paint, depending on what the final colors of the model will be.
|Silicon Work Mat (to place printer on)|
This is a good mat to place your printer on. It’ll not be damaged by any resin spills or drips, and that’ll save your table below it.
|Replacement FEP Sheets|
You usually get a few replacement sheets with your printer. If you need more, then these are easy. Watch for the fact that they have protective plastic covers front and back. These covers have to be removed before installing in the resin bath.
|Elegoo Replacement Resin Tank (Vat) (Plastic x 4)|
Elegoo, AnyCubic and Epax (and possibly other printers) all use the same size resin tank. You get a metal one with your printer, but if you’d like replacement tanks, this is a four pack of plastic tanks. You can’t replace the FEP bottom (they’re essentially disposable) but come out to roughly $10.00USD each. They’re ready to go any time you need a new resin bath.